Something 's Off Here
Tatler Singapore|July 2021
A hint of diesel fuel, a note of rotting flowers, an aftertaste of wet dog—these are the things that make our resident wine expert go weak in the knees
Sarah Heller MW
Something 's Off Here

What separates a wine that checks all the boxes for quality—rich fruit, great balance, concentration— from one that goes further and makes your soul quiver in ecstasy? Considering the sheer number of otherwise sensible people who regularly fork out princely sums to enjoy a most treasured bottle, there has to be a certain something that makes some wines more special than others.

Cynical readers might point to the valorising effect of a hefty price tag. Indeed, research suggests being told a wine is more expensive genuinely makes the drinker believe it tastes better. The mind is an extraordinary interpreter of reality, which is why blind tasting is critical for professionals. However, for my own palate, the single, irreplaceable feature of a truly great wine is something I call “the crack”. The intended connotations are multiple: one is the idea of a poetic flaw, akin to Japan’s tradition of wabi-sabi or France’s embrace of the jolie laide aesthetic; a less highbrow reading reflects how maddeningly addictive this quality is once found.

A crack typically manifests itself as an aroma, or sometimes a texture, that feels like a moment of discontinuity within an otherwise “perfect” wine. It can be something distasteful, or even downright disgusting, that I know I should resist but don’t quite want to—a hint of diesel fuel or sweat or even blood, creating a tension that perfectly resolves the whole. Think of Jacques Guerlain’s contention that “perfume should smell like the underside of my mistress”, and you are just about there.

This story is from the July 2021 edition of Tatler Singapore.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the July 2021 edition of Tatler Singapore.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM TATLER SINGAPOREView All
Mathew Leong
Tatler Singapore

Mathew Leong

As the Norway-based Singaporean chef celebrates a milestone year both personally and professionally, he opens up about the toughest moments of his career and why failing is not an option

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
Asian Inspirations
Tatler Singapore

Asian Inspirations

Chef Ace Tan on his second restaurant, Asu-his love letter to regional Asian cuisine

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
State of the Arts
Tatler Singapore

State of the Arts

Arts nominated member of parliament Usha Chandradas discusses growing the creative economy by focusing on both supply and demand

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
Through a Curator's Lens
Tatler Singapore

Through a Curator's Lens

Circe Henestrosa, a fashion curator and the head of the School of Fashion at Lasalle College of the Arts, University of the Arts Singapore, merges her personal connection with artist Frida Kahlo with her extensive curatorial experience to explore intersecting themes of identity, disability and cultural heritage

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
Second Nature
Tatler Singapore

Second Nature

Poet and educator Yong Shu Hoong brings fresh perspectives to the helm of the Singapore Writers Festival, from interdisciplinary perspectives to multilingual programmes

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
Wine Down
Tatler Singapore

Wine Down

Nothing wraps up the day like a nice glass of vino. From flashy hedonistic escapades to geeky watering holes, these new wine bars promise celebrated viniferous pours that will please even the most discerning of oenophiles

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
A Legacy in Silhouettes
Tatler Singapore

A Legacy in Silhouettes

Kristina Blahnik, CEO of the designer shoe brand Manolo Blahnik and the niece of its legendary founder, shares her insights on preserving the house's heritage and introduces the new Manolo's Silhouettes campaign

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
To Have and to Hold
Tatler Singapore

To Have and to Hold

With its sumptuous textures, Loro Piana's elegant autumn/winter 2024 collection is a chic celebration of craft, quality and the universal appeal of tactility

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
Scent of Strength
Tatler Singapore

Scent of Strength

Hermès unveils its first chypre perfume, Barénia―a captivating fragrance crafted by renowned perfumer Christine Nagel that embodies bold femininity and celebrates the brand's rich heritage

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
Nocturnal Revival
Tatler Singapore

Nocturnal Revival

Nighttime skincare rituals will get a boost of supercharged restoration with La Mer's new Rejuvenating Night Cream

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024