Who's Following Who?

Do luxury fashion houses still hold authority on what’s the next big thing? Associate fashion editor Asri Jasman posits that there’s been a shift in the balance of power and there’s no longer a single way of dissecting a trend.

- Asri Jasman

The fashion industry has been—and continues to somewhat be— seen as rather exclusive. It’s as though only chosen insiders are privy to the inner workings and processes that determine what looks good, what should be revered, and how society should dress.

Yet, now, that façade seems to have shattered. Like an authoritarian power (eventually, anyway) fashion has lost its hold on dictating dress.

It used to be that fashion designers were regarded as visionaries, serving revolutionary ideas and crafting new fashion frontiers. It was Coco Chanel who first popularised the use of jersey and applied the fabric to a wide variety of ready-to-wear pieces; apart from just men’s underwear. Christian Dior is often credited as being the designer who created a ‘new look’ after World War II, steering women towards a more feminine and extravagant style. A change was needed and, although to some it might have seemed rather regressive, something needed to feel celebratory, especially after the war.

The way we dress now has been a result of fashion houses devising innovations, exploring new materials and leading the charge for a more modern interpretation that is reflective of the times we’re in. Women in suits, denim jeans being a wardrobe staple, skinny jeans and bags for men that are not briefcases or backpacks were all fashion trends that have remained because they marked a significant societal shift.