War rages on in the town at the heart of Iran's ambition

From a ridge known locally as Baghouz Mountain, the most contested corner of the Middle East resembles an oasis: it’s a splash of green on a desert horizon stretching from the banks of the Euphrates to a sprawling area of new homes and unruly neighbours.

- Martin Chulov

The town of al-Bukamal , where smugglers, militia members, proxy groups, mercenaries and the armies of three nations have all taken prominent stakes since the juggernaut of Islamic State was defeated here three years ago, comes alive at night.

The intervening tumult has left much of Deir ez-Zor province ravaged and unreconciled. Many residents are still missing or displaced, and the war against the terror group still simmers.

This border town has become the most strategic pocket of the region. Whoever secures passage here has a significant say in events on both sides of the Euphrates. In late August, the Kurds were woken at night by loud explosions. “We could hear the jets, but they weren’t there for long,” said a Kurdish officer. “They were Israelis, we later learned. ”