1 Panis quadratus<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always">In a Pompeii bakery they excavated, archaeologists found an oven full of charcoal-like loaves of this bread. It was named for the four indentations made with a string or reed so the loaf would more easily break into portions.<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always">2 Leavens (starters) The region&rsquo;s bakers sometimes used leavens to incorporate live yeast into their bread dough. Unlike today&rsquo;s typical starters of flour and water, those used by ancient Roman bakers often contained legumes or grape skins to boost fermentation.A recipe for the bread seen here is at ngm.com/jun2021.<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always">3 Ancient grains Triticum aestivum, bread wheat, was found alongside panis quadratus loaves during bakery excavations in Pompeii. As the Roman Empire grew, wheat became the main grain for baking.<div style="page-break-before:always; page-break-after:always">4 On the table Dense, with a crunchy crust, the bread is ideal for soaking up wine, soups, and sauces, says Monaco. She grinds grain with a stone hand mill (top right) to match the coarseness of ancient Romans&rsquo; flour.

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