Whatipu Caves & Pararaha Valley

The West Coast at Whatipu is such a unique place – the constant roar of Southern Ocean swells crashing onto a black-sand coast, brooded over by crumbling cliff faces. No maiden-hair ferns or daphne bushes here, this is a place of hardier nikau, harekeke flax and cabbage trees and as we would find out, almost impenetrable stands of kanuka, gorse and blackberry. We would also discover this place was being enjoyed by some very unwelcome exotic mammals.

- Erik Skilling

If the West Coast were a character, at times it would be a beautiful Polynesian maiden with jet-black hair and shining dark brown eyes but lose respect and it quickly transforms into a Siren with dire consequences. It does not care what your intentions are – it sets the rules. Respect it and you will be amazed by its beauty.

So, in early spring with the promise a few warm days, light northerlies and a mid-day low tide we set off for Whatipu at the mouth of the Manukau Harbour. The Gibbons and Zion tracks along the cliff tops were still closed and a trip along the beach did not really appeal, so our intention was to tramp to Karekare along the base of the cliffs about a kilometre inland from the coast. Our goal was to make it to Karekare Point by the midday low tide. Easy.

After arriving a little later than expected, we didn’t think too much about what would turn out to be a painful mistake - we hadn’t packed full gaiters. We set off in a bit of a hurry and as so often happens we unintentionally took the short path to the beach, emerged from the low scrub, stopped and stared, amazed by the view in front of us.

Rugged Paratutai Island dominated the skyline to our left, Te-Toka-Tapu-a-Kupe (nine pin rock) in the distance ahead of us. A gentle offshore breeze was holding up some quite small, very un-West-Coast looking surf, but in the far distance we could see the swells breaking on the infamous Manukau Bar. The vastness was stunning.