There have been many studies performed and scientific data presented as to the benefits of being out in the ocean and catching a few waves. Yet at times, while as surfers we often turn to our passion of surfing to wash away the stresses and built-up distractions of life, sometimes we just can’t make it to the ocean for varying reasons. It could be work and family commitments, or that there just simply isn’t any surf at that moment that you most need it! Winter is also a tough time to be a surfer, shorter days and cold temperatures can provide a dark and gloomy outlook, and if your headspace is already in a mixed-up space this can drive you deeper into the darkness.
A man that really needs no introduction, Sir John Kirwan or JK as we know him, has spent the last 30 years personally battling with depression and has spent his life since coming to terms with the illness, leading a campaign of awareness towards opening up and speaking about what was once considered taboo, and creating pathways for those affected to inspire and learn to live and recovery from the illness.
We’ve all seen the man in action in his prime! Here was this man who redefined what was possible on the rugby field, a macho and confident athlete that resembled a Greek God. Yet JK had a secret that affected him deeply, and when he first came out and shared this issue, Kiwi society was gobsmacked, this couldn’t be true? This was one of our greatest athletes of all time. Sadly, it was true, and through JK’s public battle with depression and the many years of advocacy, he has changed attitudes and the perception of ‘mental illness’ which has brought this topic into the light and proven that this, in some way or another, in many shapes and forms, can affect us all.
Esta historia es de la edición Issue 187 de NZ SURFING MAGAZINE.
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Esta historia es de la edición Issue 187 de NZ SURFING MAGAZINE.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
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Trigger Finger
Ask any top surf coach and the two elements they will concentrate on and recommend are a solid bottom turn and being able to develop speed - as they say, speed is your friend, and many of the best surfers on the planet also happen to be the fastest surfers.
THESHAPESHIFTER ROGER HALL
Ladies and Gentleman Choose Your Weapons: How to decide on your next surfboard.
The Olympians
Over 50 years ago surfing’s greatest ambassador of all time, the legendary Duke Kahanamoku, had a vision that one day surfing would become an Olympic sport.
The Gladiator Pit
Born from the era of the Roman Empire, armed combatants known as gladiators would enter the arena also known as the Gladiator Pit to face up against other gladiators, animals and criminals in fierce battle in what was seen as entertainment often ending in death to one or the other.
Rising Grom Asia Braithwaite
There are those young athletes that get into sport who possess natural talent, even the X-factor, yet as the road is usually a far-too-easy passage, they either take it for granted or don’t push beyond their capabilities.
Licence To Score
The adventures behind the wheel of Mount Grom Luke Griffin.
Land Of The Long Lefts
It was the year 1966 and the sport of surfing was sweeping the world.
Theshapeshifter - Roger Hall
Ever heard of a Mini Simmons?
The Road Less Travelled
Take a look at a map of our coastline and you will see thousands of kilometres of coastline, 15,000 to be almost exact, making it the 9th longest in the world.
Then & Now
It was the early 80s and the world of sport was evolving rapidly.