At Home With The Iban

Discussing love and life in the jungle with members of Borneo’s largest indigenous tribe, the Iban.

- Laura Holt

Deep in the Borneo jungle, we’re discussing, of all things, courting rituals. Although we’re surrounded by some of nature’s rarest creatures — from orangutans to sun bears and clouded leopards — our focus isn’t on the seduction techniques of mother nature, but of man.

Sitting beside the Delok River, the Enseluai Waterfall crashes down while freshly caught carp grill on the fire. By the flickering flames, we laugh as the male members of the Iban, Borneo’s main indigenous tribe, describe their tactics. Maybe the potent tuak rice wine is to blame, but spirits are high.

“The courting process takes three nights,” says a smiling Ronny. Newly married, Ronny is one of the younger Iban men; he sports a football shirt and mobile phone, but still adheres to the age-old practices of his tribal ancestors.

“Having met a girl at one of the annual festivals, he’ll turn up at her house that night, and find her room,” Ronny continues.