The Serbian capital is made up of a sprawl of socialist blocks dotted with Ottoman relics. Although it may not be the prettiest capital, it sure knows how to have a good time
“So, what have you been doing today?” asks the Crown Prince of Serbia. I can’t think what to say. It’s the first time conversation has dried up over the past few days; if there’s one thing I’ve learned about Serbians, it’s that they love to talk — about the war, about their country, about how they are perceived in the wider world, about films, about apples… anything.
This chat is a little different though. As I’d arrived for my visit at the Royal Palace, the prince had been holding court with a small group of American tourists from a cruise ship, regaling them with tales of Serbia’s past royals. They’d listened, enthralled, then queued to shake his hand, and that of his formidable Greek wife, Crown Princess Katherine. I’d expected a brief hello, but instead the prince, princess and I unexpectedly sat down for tea and cake.
“Have you seen anything interesting?” the prince prompts. I don’t think it would be particularly good etiquette to mention that I’ve come straight from former President of Yugoslavia Tito’s tomb at House of Flowers. It might be a little awkward as the Serbian royal family was exiled for nearly 60 years, forbidden to return after the Second World War by the communist regime. Everyone in Belgrade has something to say about Tito, ardent defenders or passionate decriers. I’ve got a feeling what the Crown Prince, born in exile in London, thinks of him. So I lie. “I’ve been… to the fortress.”
This story is from the June 2018 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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This story is from the June 2018 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
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