Winter's Spell
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|December 2017

A SNOW MOBILE RIDE THROUGH NORWAY’S FAR NORTH REVEALS THE POWER — BOTH DANGEROUS AND BENIGN — OF MOTHER NATURE

Connor Mcgovern
Winter's Spell

Marte is clambering over her snowmobile, waving at the others behind me to stop. Meanwhile, I’m parked precariously on a soaring white hill, carefully applying enough gas to stop myself from slowly sliding backwards. “I’m stuck,” she calls out when the others catch up. “Turn off your engines. And remember your hand brakes!”

I am reassured; it appears even the most seasoned snow mobilers get stuck. Following her orders, we jump off the scooter and trudge uphill to help her, the fluffy virgin snow coming well up our shins. “You guys pull, and I’ll slowly back it up,” she announces. “Just don’t stand too close behind me unless you want to be under the scooter.”

We begin heaving it backwards, though I fear I’m doing little to help. My arms ache from the past two days of driving around Spitsbergen, the largest island of northern Norway’s Svalbard archipelago, and I’m convinced this snowmobile is as heavy as a horse. Marte, our guide, fiddles with the levers and buttons and slowly the vehicle starts to edge back. But our efforts are ultimately no good; it buries itself deeper into the dense snow. A new tactic: now armed with the giant shovel she keeps on the back of the scooter, she begins digging a path out, hurling flurries of snow over her head.

We give it another shot. With an aggressive growl from the engine, Marte zips up the hill, sending a shower of snowflakes in her wake. Relieved, I can just about hear her cheer over the sigh of relief echoing inside my helmet before we follow suit, careful to trace the fresh, safe track she has just carved through the snow.

This story is from the December 2017 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the December 2017 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK)View All
Annette Arjoon-Martins
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Annette Arjoon-Martins

RAISED BY HER INDIGENOUS GRANDMOTHER IN GUYANA, SOUTH AMERICA, ANNETTE BUILT A FEMALE DRONE UNIT TO MONITOR MANGROVES

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
The Amazon to the Andes
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

The Amazon to the Andes

THIS AUTUMN, PADDINGTON HEADS TO PERU ON THE BIG SCREEN - FOLLOW IN HIS PAWPRINTS FOR AN EPIC FAMILY ADVENTURE

time-read
1 min  |
November 2024
Serra de Tramuntana
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Serra de Tramuntana

MAJORCA'S MAJOR MOUNTAIN RANGE IS EVERY BIT AS BEAUTIFUL AS THE ISLAND'S COASTLINE - AND YOU CAN HIKE STRAIGHT FROM YOUR HOTEL

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
CRAFTING PERFECTION
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

CRAFTING PERFECTION

Carlsberg's old brewing district has been redeveloped, offering creative new ways to enjoy Copenhagen

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
HOTEL AWARDS 2024
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

HOTEL AWARDS 2024

IT'S BEEN AN EPIC YEAR FOR HOTEL OPENINGS, REVAMPS AND EXTENSIONS, AND WE'VE SCOURED THE GLOBE FOR THE BEST OF THEM. WHETHER YOU WANT TO TUNE INTO THE JUNGLE FROM A TREEHOUSE, SLEEP IN A PIECE OF HISTORY OR WATCH THE SUN SET OVER MOUNTAIN PEAKS FROM YOUR BED, YOU'RE GUARANTEED A MEMORABLE STAY FROM OUR WINNERS AND RUNNERS-UP

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
MALDIVES
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

MALDIVES

An archipelago of 1,192 coral islands and 26 turquoise atolls looping across the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is home to resorts that cater to every imaginable taste, from barefoot escapes to designer digs. The most convenient to reach are located in the South Malé, North Malé and Vaavu atolls, within speedboat distance of Velana International Airport, while more remote atolls are accessible by seaplane or domestic flight. With easy access to the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Baa and Raa are especially popular. Those around the Equator, including Gaafu Alifu, offer a splendid sense of isolation, abundant marine life and brilliantly starry night skies.

time-read
5 mins  |
November 2024
TRANSYLVANIA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

TRANSYLVANIA

The central Romanian region of Dracula fame makes for an intriguing autumn break - sink your teeth into its crafts and culture after discovering its turreted castles.

time-read
7 mins  |
November 2024
Audio adventures
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Audio adventures

FROM OVERTOURISM TO HOW THE OLYMPIC GAMES AFFECTS HOST CITIES, HERE ARE SOME OF THE BEST PODCASTS THAT EXPLORE THE WORLD

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
NICE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NICE

Historically a place where monarchs and aristocrats would escape the winter in favour of warm Mediterranean climes, this southern French city is at its best in the off season

time-read
9 mins  |
November 2024
BELFAST
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BELFAST

In the Northern Irish capital, the healing and uniting powers of music and art are being used to reconcile the past, look to the future and bring communities together

time-read
10+ mins  |
November 2024