The Past And Present Of Portswood

A hotel with history, filled with modern comforts

- Eugene Yiga

The PortsWood, at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, has everything you’d expect from a luxury hotel. But, unlike many a five-star behemoth without a soul, it also has a history that goes back over 100 years.

This isn’t something I thought about when I checked in on a sweltering afternoon. Perhaps that’s understandable. The first thing I did after check-in was take a walk next door to The Commodore, one of two dozen sister properties in the Legacy Hotels group, for a modern experience. 

Here, I found the Casuarina Wellness Centre, where I enjoyed the manicure, pedicure, facial and massage that make up the ‘Urban Man’ treatment. I was so wrapped up in the two-and-a-half-hour process – literally, in the case of my hands after their first paraffin dip – that the past was the last thing on my mind. 

But the sense of history struck me when I sauntered back to the PortsWood and noticed the details I missed earlier. At the centre of the lobby is an ancient well, with scattered coins at the bottom for those brave enough to lean over and take a look through the glass. On top of this sits a zodiac globe that made me think of the orb in the opening credits of Game of Thrones. There was also a sense of nautical exploration from days gone by. On the walls were maps from a time when early sailors gave Africa a different shape, while models of famous ships sat anchored behind glass. 

The maritime theme continued up to the third floor. Walking to the end of the ‘Business Deck’ – boat imprints on the carpet and ship paintings on the walls – made me feel like I was on a cruise.