AN ODE TO PROVENCE

On a day trip from Cannes, KSHIPRA BHAT samples the Southeast French region of Provence, taking in castles, wines, confectionery, and truffles along the way.

- KSHIPRA BHAT

CADENET IS SLOWLY waking up. A thick blanket of haze is steadily letting golden sunrays kiss the lush green fields. Undulating shades of gold sprawl over the swollen Durance River. On a chilly day in early December, I am driving through the tree-lined roads of Provence. My guide for the day, William Templer, who has been living in the region for more than a decade, is relieved that the sun is out, especially after the area endured torrential rains all of last week. I secretly feel lucky, too. The most awaited part of my trip to France wouldn’t have been possible without blessings from Helios.

I am on my way to Les Pastras (lespastras.com), a traditional Pepin family vineyard spread over 11 hectares, situated in the hills between Cadenet and Lourmarin. The vast expanse of the farm features a two-storeyed Provençal country house with a fusion of traditional and modern details—pastel shades, stone floors, soft lines, wooden beams, and walls adorned with modern art. But my visit’s raison d’être is outside the cosy comforts of the country house. I’m here for a truffle hunt! Seated under an oak tree, along with a French and an American truffle enthusiast, I first gain insight into the differences among black, white, and summer truffles—and why they are called ‘diamonds of the kitchen’. Our flamboyant host, Johann Pepin, lets us in on the process of training dogs for truffle hunting. Pepin is not only running these truffle tours for connoisseurs and intrepid travellers, but he is also a torchbearer for preserving other French countryside traditions like mushroom foraging, grape stomping, and olive harvesting.