GO WITH THE FLOW

A cruise on the tempestuous Brahmaputra River leaves an indelible impression on ANITA AND MANDIP SINGH SOIN—a responsible travel champion and T+L India’s A-List member.

- ANITA AND MANDIP SINGH SOIN

IN DECEMBER 2021, our 22-member team of Ibex Expeditions set off on a mesmerising five-day journey. Flying into Guwahati, we drove straight to Pandu Port, where our 12-cabin boat called Sukapha was anchored. After a brief welcome and cabin allocation, we heard the thrilling purr of the boat’s engine.

Our journey was northwards and upstream, towards Tezpur. The Brahmaputra—or ‘son of Brahma,’ creator of the universe—is special for many reasons. Twenty nine kilometres wide from June to October, it creates a vast monochrome landscape threaded with sandbanks. We knew that cruising on it would be challenging but deeply rewarding.

The Brahmaputra carves its course through the green-gold landscape of hilly Assam in India’s far Northeast—a world of tea plantations, ancient temples, and wildlife, offering an enticing blend of culture, scenery, and adventure. The river shapes the destiny of the land and the lives of the people living there. We could immediately see the links between the changing course of the river and the lifestyle of the people living near it. Villages were built away from the banks, on bamboo stilts, ensuring safety from rising water levels. Human activity was sparse but fascinating. We spotted the occasional ferry and fishermen dunking their nets while nomads grew lentils on the sandbanks.

During our five days of sailing, I felt a sense of space, a rejuvenation of the soul. Sunsets were special. The hazy light of the day gave way to burnt orange skies, and the river became a shimmering mass of burnished gold. We glided lazily past forests, paddy fields, and villages. Our travelling companions were from across India, US, and Dubai. Friendships were struck on the boat while basking on the deck and over conservations at mealtimes—spreads of Assamese, Asian, and other cuisines.