Salt, Sand & Spice: The Thar Therapy

The desert sand heals those who dare to tread it. ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY discover an oasis of wellness and halwai cuisine amid the dunes of Rajasthan.

- Anurag Mallick And Priya Ganapathy

One look at the harsh, unforgiving landscape of the Thar and you wonder what rejuvenation a desert could possibly offer. As we drove into Jaisalmer, there was no palm-fringed oasis in sight, and the barren land with hardy kikar and khejri trees stretched as far as the eye could see. Unlike Kerala or Bali, the Thar didn’t possess the healing touch of green, the crisp mountain air of British sanatoriums of yore, or the relaxing hot water springs of the fabled spa towns of Europe.

The Great Indian Desert yawned endlessly over 200,000 square kilometres, covering 60 percent of the state of Rajasthan. However, all apprehensions about a wellness holiday in an arid, desolate tract prone to extreme temperatures dissipated, as a flagged convoy waiting on the town’s outskirts led us with much pomp to Suryagarh. From the main gate, two camels ushered us up the slope to the resort’s entrance where floral showers, drummers, and a traditional welcome swept us off our feet.

Founded by Maharawal Jaisal Singh in the 12th century, Jaisalmer lay on the southern strand of the legendary Silk Route. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, the city thrived on taxes collected from the caravans travelling from Central Asia to Osian and China. Its caravanserais teemed with traders plying exotic goods. Inspired by this indigenous desert culture and its ancient healing traditions, Suryagarh’s Rait Spa was named after the sea of rait (sand) it was set in. Drawing on the essence of delicate aromas of fine oils, elixirs, and spices, its signature thermal therapies were based on sand, salt, and stone. But Suryagarh’s legendary hospitality, spearheaded by our host Manvendra Singh Shekhawat, was not to be taken lightly.

The traditional