The Royal Cenotaphs Of Rajasthan
Travel+Leisure India|December 2020
Travelogues on Rajasthan often brim with effusive praise for its palaces and castles. But every royal city has another common feature: cenotaphs. Anubhuti Krishna follows the trail.
Anubhuti Krishna
The Royal Cenotaphs Of Rajasthan

AROUND 10 KILOMETRES from the city of Bikaner stands a sprawling compound. Enclosed by a low, white boundary and surrounded by a barren desert, the compound is home to dozens of domes of various sizes. The structures wear hand-painted frescoes inside and hand-carved motifs outside. A small shrine of a local deity stands nearby, as if protecting the structures from the vagaries of nature. But this is no palace or castle. These are cenotaphs of the royal family of Bikaner.

Traditionally erected to honour the memory of a person or a group of people, cenotaphs literally translate to empty tombs. While they are seen throughout the world, in India they are mostly found in the central and western states, with the largest and most ornate ones spread around Rajasthan. Every major town that has been a seat of power— Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Udaipur, Bundi, Bikaner—is home to cenotaphs, or chhatris as they are called in India.

I first learnt about them about 10 years ago. I was on a trip to Jodhpur and was staying with a family in the old city. Their home, one of the many that form the Blue City, was narrow and high, and the only way I could get some fresh air on those stuffy August evenings was to get to the rooftop. There was another reason to climb the steep flights of stairs though: the view. Late in the evening, the Blue City would twinkle on one side of our residence, and on the other stood a glistening marble structure. Tall, majestic, and ornate, it looked like an ostentatious temple to my untrained eyes. I learnt from my hosts that it was actually a cenotaph, the final resting place of the famous Jodhpur king Jaswant Singh II built by his son, Maharaja Sardar Singh.

This story is from the December 2020 edition of Travel+Leisure India.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the December 2020 edition of Travel+Leisure India.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM TRAVEL+LEISURE INDIAView All
Retro: Timeless & Trending
Travel+Leisure India

Retro: Timeless & Trending

As AI dominates the tech world, Nikhil Chawla introduces devices and apps that evoke nostalgia with their retro charm and timeless appeal.

time-read
2 mins  |
October 2024
Celebrating Timeless Austin
Travel+Leisure India

Celebrating Timeless Austin

Austin is a melting pot of culture and style, and a personification of the great American lifestyle,

time-read
5 mins  |
October 2024
A Legacy of Art and Activism
Travel+Leisure India

A Legacy of Art and Activism

Mallika Sarabhai reflects on her rich heritage as she discusses her unique approach to blending tradition with modernity, the power of arts in activism and her commitment to bringing about social change, in this conversation with Dipali Patwa.

time-read
4 mins  |
October 2024
Second Course
Travel+Leisure India

Second Course

Noma chef René Redezpi found fame with ingredient-focused fine dining. His new TV show goes even further.

time-read
2 mins  |
October 2024
The Safari Sanctuary
Travel+Leisure India

The Safari Sanctuary

Aamaghati Wildlife Resort, Ranthambore’s latest opening, offers the finest facilities and accommodation in the district and has the park embedded deep inside its soul.

time-read
3 mins  |
October 2024
THE ETERNAL FLAVOURS of our TIMELESS CLASSICS
Travel+Leisure India

THE ETERNAL FLAVOURS of our TIMELESS CLASSICS

India's most-loved restaurants have all stood the test of time, especially in an era when food ventures open with vast market research and modern aesthetics but fail to make a lasting impression. This is what makes our favourites timeless.

time-read
6 mins  |
October 2024
LATE CHECK OUT WITH Ayushmann Churrana
Travel+Leisure India

LATE CHECK OUT WITH Ayushmann Churrana

A film with a social message, a deeply inspiring couplet, a music tour that lets him explore his alter ego of sorts—what makes Ayushmann Khurrana the right fit in everything he chooses to do?

time-read
4 mins  |
October 2024
Luxury Legacy
Travel+Leisure India

Luxury Legacy

Meet Tikka Shatrujit Singh, the visionary who paved the way for luxury brands to thrive in India. One of the most iconic figures in India's fashion and luxury industry, the former head representative of LVMH in Asia tells Samreen Tungekar about his journey, what today's consumer wants, and how Indian tourism can turn the world on its head.

time-read
4 mins  |
October 2024
Global Glamour
Travel+Leisure India

Global Glamour

Attention shopaholics, we've got you covered! From Copenhagen to Cape Town, Marrakech to Melbourne, here are 20 cities across the world where you can indulge in retail therapy. Follow our guide to get your hands on traditional, bespoke, sustainable, slow fashion, and innovative, kitschy must-haves.

time-read
10 mins  |
October 2024
ARTISTIC INGENUITY MEETS ARCHITECTURAL SPLENDOUR
Travel+Leisure India

ARTISTIC INGENUITY MEETS ARCHITECTURAL SPLENDOUR

Architect Simran Boparai's skilled designs blend modernity with heritage, while striving for spatial excellence.

time-read
1 min  |
October 2024