Where Will You Sleep Tonight?
go! - South Africa|August/September 2021
On a long drive from the Kalahari to Cape Town, Toast Coetzer counts his blessings.
Nicolene Louw
Where Will You Sleep Tonight?

After a wonderful week spent in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, it’s time to head back home. I’m cutting it fine. It’s Friday morning and I’ve promised an old friend that I would be at his farewell lunch in Cape Town on Saturday. He’s moving to the Netherlands and I want to say goodbye properly. But that leaves me with just one day to drive 1127km from Twee Rivieren.

It’s a job that gets done one way, and one way only: Wind up the window and drive. The automatic Mahindra shifts gears and I can feel the bakkie accelerating. It’s a good feeling, after the past few days of slow sand driving on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail.

I notice a couple of men working with livestock in a kraal and I lift a hand to wave. A little further, the narrow tar road sweeps through a beautiful patch of camel thorn trees. In the crown of one tree I notice two white-backed vultures: They’re getting their nest ready for the coming breeding season.

Close to Molopo Kalahari Lodge, I spot something so unusual that I almost drive off the road. This is Khomani San country, and a couple of Bushmen are plying their trade to passing tourists. Noticing my out-of-province number plates, one guy jumps up and starts a dance to draw my attention. But that’s not what floors me: Save for a pair of underpants, the only item of clothing he’s wearing is a bright blue face mask!

If ever there was a sign of the times…

Covid cases have been rising in the Northern Cape, so I suppose it’s not that surprising. But I don’t have time to stop, have a lekker chat and so on. I have to drive.

This story is from the August/September 2021 edition of go! - South Africa.

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This story is from the August/September 2021 edition of go! - South Africa.

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