As the plane starts its descent towards Livingstone’s Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport, I wonder where the city buildings are. All I can see from my window seat is red earth and national roads that seem to go on endlessly before meeting little clusters of houses that make up the border towns in the vast, sparsely populated country that is Zambia. From my side of the aisle, there is no sign of the mighty Zambezi either. The fourth-longest river in Africa has its source in a tiny spring in northern Zambia, then meanders down, gathering strength until it reaches Livingstone, where it sends its waters cascading into the Zambezi gorge in the 1708m-wide curtain of water (the largest in the world) that is the Victoria Falls, or Mosi-oa-Tunya, ‘the smoke that thunders’.
As we file out of the plane, reeking of insect repellent to ward off flies and malaria-carrying mosquitoes (highly unnecessary in the daytime, btw), the air feels palpably still. Thankfully, the weather is mild, probably 27ºC at most, as it is early September. The ground crew is manually unpacking our bags from the plane onto a kind of pickup truck. I feel as if I’ve stumbled back two centuries, a feeling that is reinforced as we sweep through the ornate gates to the Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara.
DAY 1
Warm welcome
This story is from the February 2020 edition of Fairlady.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the February 2020 edition of Fairlady.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
'DESIRE IS NOT WHAT MATTERS'
Emily Nagoski wrote the book on women and desire - literally. And then her own sex life dried up. Here's what a prolonged sex drought (and a load of research) taught her about maintaining intimacy in a long-term relationship.
'We have to tell HARD STORIES'
Theatre director and playwright Yaël Farber is spending time in South Africa after her critically acclaimed run of King Lear at the Almeida Theatre in London. We chatted to her about the importance of the pursuit of truth.
THE WHY, THE WHICH & the wardrobe
We really got into it this month! Read on for more on the allure of a loosey-goosey jumpsuit, vintage-hunting and jingle-jangling jewellery, the best places to find quality African design and short-girl styling tips.
LIFT your GAME
Thought weightlifting was just for bodybuilders and powerlifters? Not so. In fact, 'lifting heavy shit' may be the secret to longevity, hormone regulation and mood for women through perimenopause and beyond.
TREATMENT PLAN ON YOUR MARKS
Armed with a six-month programme from Dr Nerina Wilkinson + Associates, Jennifer Morin set about tackling her sun damage and melasma.
PLAYING YOUR CARDS RIGHT
Here's how to get the most out of loyalty cards.
BIG SKY Country
Namibia. Twelve friends, five vehicles, 4000 km, thirteen days. Eight punctures, one angle grinder. One martial eagle, one full moon, one ghost town. Plenty of top-quality braais, maybe not quite enough oysters... and the best time ever.
IS YOUR HOME MAKING YOU SICK?
Leaks, damp and poor ventilation in old or poorly built new homes are being fingered for a growing health concern: mould.
HOW TO REALLY GET TO KNOW SOMEONE
The Korean word 'nunchi' describes 'the ability to be sensitive to other people's moods and thoughts'. It's an underrated skill that we seem to have lost.
How to write a memoir
Whether you want to share your experiences and insights with the world, leave a legacy or track pivotal experiences for yourself, writing your memoir can be a grand and worthwhile adventure. Here's some advice on how and where to begin.