My original plan had been to quickly cover the Furka, Susten and Grimsel mountain passes in central Switzerland, then move on to some more dramatic passes further east (why, hello Mr Stelviol) before heading M down to Misano in Italy for the World Ducati Week.
Then I arrived at my hotel, just off the top of the Grimsel Pass, and decided to stay here a bit longer.
Here's what happened: The hotel that made me change my plans is at the end of the Oberaar Panoramic Road, an absolutely stunning single track running along the side of Grimselsee to Oberaarsee (no sniggering there at the back!). The narrow road is only open one way at a time, operating a light-controlled one-way system to allow traffic one way on the hour, and back at half-past.
Even with all the famous mountain passes around you, this one feels special. It's narrow and slow, so it's not the thrill of the ride that makes it great, it's the scenery: you can see majestic snow-capped mountain tops in the distance; the lake reflects the mountains and doubles the beauty; and apart from the dams and a cable car, there's just wilderness around you.
The air is cool and fresh as it can only be at this altitude (2164 metres at the top of the Grimsel Pass where the road starts). The scale of everything is just staggering. It's easy to feel like you are just a tiny speck of dust in the universe.
As I arrived at the Berghaus Oberaar hotel, I was already thinking that I would like to stay here a bit longer. The hotel is beautiful and well-kept; the staff are lovely; rooms very reasonable; and the views in all directions are just to die for.
So, I had another look at my plans. Instead of rushing over to do more passes in the east, I could just do these ones properly, giving them the time they deserve. And so it was decided, I was staying here two nights.
Grimsel Pass
This story is from the December 2022 edition of Motorcycle Sport & Leisure.
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This story is from the December 2022 edition of Motorcycle Sport & Leisure.
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