![HALF WAY HEAVEN](https://cdn.magzter.com/1387288041/1718184843/articles/FwWbE995S1720608505005/HALF-WAY-HEAVEN.jpg)
We leave Tahiti with strong trades. Easterlies funnel along the side of the volcanic island, and Elixir tears downwind toward Mo'orea. It's humpback season. Occasionally, behind foaming crests, we glimpse their immense bodies - the sun reflecting off their polished backs. The islands' saw-toothed ridges of dark rock catch the fluffy tradewind clouds. Deep, verdant valleys add to the ethereal scene. There's something magical about the South Pacific. It's the people and the places, tales of ancient voyagers and abstract deities. A sense of fierce beauty in every glance of swaying palms and textured lagoons.
We're halfway through our Pacific crossing. Over the last four months we've covered 3,500 miles from the arid shorelines of Mexico, through the secluded communities of the Marquesas and Tuamotus and into the pristine lagoons of the Society Islands. Ahead, there's another 2,500 miles - the 'dangerous middle' through Samoa and Tonga and onward to New Zealand.
THE SOCIETIES
The Societies blend the striking volcanic formations of the Marquesas with the circular atolls of the Tuamotus. They consist of a volcanic island, engulfed by a barrier reef. Tahiti is the largest, and a succession of smaller islands extend a few hundred miles west, towards the next island nation, The Cook Islands.
After Tahiti and Mo’orea, we make quick stops at Raiatea, Maupiti and Maupiha’a. The islands become progressively less populated and a clear trend emerges: the smaller the population, the friendlier the locals.
There’s a steep price on groceries in French Polynesia. Fortunately, we discover the trading economy. Our worn lines, fish hooks, torn sails, and old clothes gain a newfound value. A modest bag is readily swapped for a few weeks’ worth of fresh provisions.
This story is from the July 2024 edition of Yachting World.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the July 2024 edition of Yachting World.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
![THE NEXT CHAPTER](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/FIOdF7_Xq1720613293074/THE-NEXT-CHAPTER.jpg)
THE NEXT CHAPTER
THE ARCHETYPAL SCHOONER CRUISER-RACER IS BACK ON THE CARIBBEAN CIRCUIT. NIGEL SHARP JOINED ADELA'S CREW FOR ITS FIRST REGATTA IN FIVE YEARS, THE ANTIGUA SUPERYACHT CHALLENGE
![ZEMI FORM MEETS FUNCTION](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/aj5sutIhU1720612763487/ZEMI-FORM-MEETS-FUNCTION.jpg)
ZEMI FORM MEETS FUNCTION
MALCOLM MCKEON DELIGHTS IN THE CHANCE TO RACE HIS OWN DESIGN BALTIC 110 ZEMI AT THE ST BARTHS BUCKET.
![PEGASUS TAKES OFF](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/J0AdTkN9a1720612395739/PEGASUS-TAKES-OFF.jpg)
PEGASUS TAKES OFF
MIXING NEW AND PROVEN IDEAS, PEGASUS HAS CREATED A SHORTHANDED FAST BLUEWATER YACHT WITH A MARKED DIFFÉRENCE, AS TOBY HODGES DISCOVERS ON A TWO-DAY TEST SAIL
![A LONG WAY ROUND](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/VDJ9tYW6U1720611441293/A-LONG-WAY-ROUND.jpg)
A LONG WAY ROUND
THE OCEAN GLOBE RACE WAS ALL ABOUT BRINGING BACK THE SPIRIT OF THE EARLY WHITBREADS. ELAINE BUNTING FINDS OUT HOW THE CREWS FARED
![THE BIG OCEAN CLEAN](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/l5RwJeRSQ1720611035482/THE-BIG-OCEAN-CLEAN.jpg)
THE BIG OCEAN CLEAN
AN AMBITIOUS PLAN IS SETTING OUT TO REMOVE PLASTIC FROM THE WORLD'S GREATEST OCEAN
![RING OF FIRE](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/_OVld6qaA1720610709765/RING-OF-FIRE.jpg)
RING OF FIRE
A MEMORABLE PASSAGE FROM FIJI TO AUSTRALIA FOR KATE ASHE-LEONARD
![HALF WAY HEAVEN](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/FwWbE995S1720608505005/HALF-WAY-HEAVEN.jpg)
HALF WAY HEAVEN
A FINAL PACIFIC PASSAGE FROM FRENCH POLYNESIA TO NEW ZEALAND TAKES THE SWAN 37 ELIXIR HALFWAY AROUND THE WORLD
![THE ENDLESS OCEAN](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/K_hy0uLjy1720608167536/THE-ENDLESS-OCEAN.jpg)
THE ENDLESS OCEAN
THE PACIFIC IS THE WORLD'S BIGGEST OCEAN, BUT WITH SO MANY OPTIONS HOW DO YOU PLAN A ROUTE ACROSS? CRUISERS SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES
![NIKKI HENDERSON](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/buus-Ppx41720607813172/NIKKI-HENDERSON.jpg)
NIKKI HENDERSON
ALL YACHTS SHOULD HAVE THE MEANS TO GO ALOFT AT SEA AND A CREW MEMBER WILLING AND ABLE TO DO SO
![MATTHEW SHEAHAN](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/5180/1730731/5mFQY7FFp1720607508152/MATTHEW-SHEAHAN.jpg)
MATTHEW SHEAHAN
IT’S ALL SMILES FOR THE AMERICA’S CUP TEAMS AS THE BRAND NEW AC75 BOATS HIT THE WATER. BUT THE SERIOUS BUSINESS STARTS SOON...