London Pouring

A natural-wine soaked tour of Britain's capital, with nary a pint in sight

- AMIEL STANEK

London 

FISH AND CHIPS. Cask ale. A proper English breakfast. All things an American visiting London ought to seek out, no doubt. But for me, a trip to this enchanting city is about one thing: wine, particularly natural wine, and a whole lot of it. At the risk of offending my friends across the Channel, I would argue that London is one of the most fun places to drink right now-particularly if you, like me, have never been able to successfully commit to a Duolingo regimen. The wine scene here feels more pubby than clubby, and proximity to continental Europe means bottles that are costly or rare in the States are far more accessible and affordable. Best of all, this profusion of Good Juice isn't limited to bars alone. Whether you're after Turkish kebabs or West African-style grilled fish, a fine dining Saturday night or traditional Sunday roast, a stellar bottle of low-intervention wine is never far behind.

Chishuru

Chef-owner Adejoké Bakare was a self-described home cook before winning a competition that landed her a coveted restaurant space on South London's Market Row in Brixton Village. And while Chishuru is better known for Bakare's creative take on the food of West Africa than it is for its tight, well-curated wine list, the combination makes for an unmissable experience. Where else can you marvel at how the light creaminess of a Burgundian Aligoté tames the scorching heat of Scotch bonnet sauce, or the way a dark-fruited red blend from the Languedoc plays with the spiced depth of jollof rice?

THE ESSENTIALS

The Hot Spots

Chishuru P. Franco

Mangal II

The Camberwell Arms

The Plimsoll Planque 

Brat  Sessions Arts Club

Norman's Cafe

When to go