In 2022, the Rhône experienced its hottest and driest growing season since 1950 even more so than 2003, a vintage burned into the memory of local winemakers. So I approached this year’s tastings with some trepidation. Extreme conditions rarely make for balanced wines.
A very different picture began to emerge as I started tasting. Rather than boozy behemoths, I found middleweight wines with just-ripe berry fruits and moderate alcohol. Some were lean, even, with green, unripe tannins. Never before has a vintage so confounded my expectations.
The drought started early in the year and barely let up until harvest; combined with the intense heat (it was the hottest May on record), it caused many vines to stop growing in order to conserve water. Some winemakers, such as top Hermitage producer Jean-Louis Chave, believe this is evidence of vines adapting to an increasingly extreme climate. Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme describes the blockages as the vine’s ‘security mode’ during periods of hydric stress. He says: ‘In 2003, the vines kept growing when they should have shut down… 2022 is very different.’ To many, it gives hope for the future.
Although the entire Rhône valley experienced similar weather conditions, this effect isn’t uniform. Some reds are lean, others feel jammy and alcoholic. It makes generalising about appellations and even producers difficult. There are some great wines, but 2022 is too variable to be described as a great vintage – although it’s largely a good one. In both the north and south, the greatest terroirs really proved their worth.
This story is from the February 2024 edition of Decanter.
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This story is from the February 2024 edition of Decanter.
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