A lip-smacking, zesty, tangy spread made from fromage blanc (simple farmer’s cheese), fresh herbs and a few other savory basics, the so-called cervelle de canut is a celebrated dish in Lyon. Like so many specialties from the heart of French gastronomy, it’s profoundly steeped in its city’s farm-to-table and homestyle traditions.
The long-suffering workers who powered Lyon’s main industry in the 18th and 19th centuries—silk-making— were called canuts. Accepted wisdom is that the spread’s title is not only a bit of a bourgeois snub but also reference to it as an affordable substitute for fried calf’s or lamb’s brains, a notoriously expensive delicacy.
This story is from the August 31, 2024 edition of Wine Spectator.
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This story is from the August 31, 2024 edition of Wine Spectator.
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