SKiN SCiENCE

As more brands focus on efficacy and safety in skin of color, the product benefits are multiplying. Deanna Pai explores this long-overdue development.

That was the norm until Rihanna's Fenty Beauty came onto the scene in 2017, unveiling a comprehensive range of 40 base shades with plenty of options for Black and Brown makeup wearers. It led to a phenomenon since dubbed the "Fenty Effect," which prompted other cosmetics brands to expand their lines.

Now, the movement for inclusivity is coming (finally!) to your skin-care routine.

For years, skin of color was an afterthought in the beauty industry. (Shout-out to those of us who've had to mix multiple shades of foundation to get a decent match.)

And it's about time. As dermatologists have known for years, not only does a melanin-rich epidermis have unique needs, but it also is more prone to dryness and irritation. Plus, "when someone with a darker complexion has an adverse reaction to a product, they face a higher risk of developing hyperpigmentation as a result," says Nada Elbuluk, MD, a professor of dermatology at the USC Keck School of Medicine and the founding director of the USC Skin of Color and Pigmentary Disorders Program.

In true better-late-than-never fashion, brands are now developing serums, creams, and the like that are targeted toward and tested on skin of color. Welcome to the new age of beauty, where a healthy glow is something everyone can achieve.

MORE THAN MELANIN ...

The biggest distinction between Caucasian and, say, African American skin is the amount of melanin or pigment, that's found in deeper tones-it's more plentiful and much darker, says Neelam Vashi, MD, a professor of dermatology at Boston University School of Medicine and the founding director of the Boston University Center for Ethnic Skin.