PRESERVING TRADITIONS
Southern Living|May 2023
IN A SMALL NORTH CAROLINA TOWN, GABRIELLE EITIENNE USES FOOD TO MARRY THE PAST AND PRESENT, WITH DELICIOUS RESULTS
BRIGID RANSOME WASHINGTON
PRESERVING TRADITIONS

AS A CHILD GROWING UP ON HER FAMILY'S LAND in the Central North Carolina community of St. Mary's, Gabrielle Eitienne knew that a special event was taking shape by the aroma of barbecue sauce simmering in the kitchen. The recipe, passed down from her great-grandfather Andrew J. Woodard, is no ordinary sauce. "It is part of my family's story and spirit," explains Eitienne. "It's not something that we make every day, and it remains one of the most tangible and tasty reminders of the man he was."

Made from an apple cider vinegar base, the sauce is a legacy from one of the most principled and pioneering members of her clan. Woodard earned substantive money by smoking and barbecuing the hogs of his neighbors and friends. As a little girl, Eitienne heard the bright and bombastic stories of her great-grandfather's businesses (he had a day job at a lumber mill and also ran a wildly popular juke joint for some time) from her mother and other relatives who had a front-row seat to his culinary enterprises. "People brought their whole hogs over to my great-granddad, and he would give the meat the star treatment," she says. "That was his specialty, and this sauce sings with how skilled he was."

Passing down these anecdotes and recipes isn't just a personal project for Eitienne; it has become her life's work. As a cultural preservationist, she has made it her mission to uphold and amplify culinary traditions and knowledge from the past, specifically Black foodways. "There's so much practical wisdom to discover from how our ancestors lived and from their contributions to society," she says. "I find a strong sense of my identity and purpose from learning about them, their entrepreneurship, land stewardship, and unfailing sense of community." In Wake County, North Carolina, where she now resides, her direct connection to the place is at least four generations deep. And the presence of all the people who came before her remains her North Star.

Esta historia es de la edición May 2023 de Southern Living.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

Esta historia es de la edición May 2023 de Southern Living.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

MÁS HISTORIAS DE SOUTHERN LIVINGVer todo
It's Pasta Night, Y'all!
Southern Living

It's Pasta Night, Y'all!

A little bit Southern, a little bit Italian, and ready in just 30 minutes

time-read
4 minutos  |
March 2025
MAKING MY WAY IN Savannah
Southern Living

MAKING MY WAY IN Savannah

This historic Georgia destination welcomes around 15 million tourists each year. Among them are visitors like me who have disabilities and unique travel challenges. Thankfully, the Hostess City of the South lives up to its nickname

time-read
10 minutos  |
March 2025
the MAGIC of MANATEES
Southern Living

the MAGIC of MANATEES

Meeting Florida's most loved marine mammals on their own turf-er, surf Admire manatees at Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge.

time-read
7 minutos  |
March 2025
Making Room To Grow
Southern Living

Making Room To Grow

A women-led team helps a young family reconfigure their 100-year-old Birmingham house to accommodate their evolving needs

time-read
5 minutos  |
March 2025
Welcome to the Neighborhood
Southern Living

Welcome to the Neighborhood

Get to know Oklahoma's vibrant capital city by exploring each of its distinctive boroughs

time-read
8 minutos  |
March 2025
The Mystery of the Whataburger
Southern Living

The Mystery of the Whataburger

When the talk of the town leaves you hungry for updates

time-read
2 minutos  |
March 2025
REINVENTING THE WHEEL
Southern Living

REINVENTING THE WHEEL

Designer Andrew Howard summons every color under the sun in this merrily maximalist abode in St. Simons Island, Georgia

time-read
5 minutos  |
March 2025
Brights of Spring
Southern Living

Brights of Spring

Nashville's Cheekwood in Bloom festival welcomes new growth in Technicolor style

time-read
4 minutos  |
March 2025
The New Rules of Neutrals
Southern Living

The New Rules of Neutrals

From vibrant hues to softer tones, shades of blue and green are replacing the basics

time-read
3 minutos  |
March 2025
Green Energy
Southern Living

Green Energy

Take advantage of peak-season Swiss chard, from leaf to stem

time-read
1 min  |
March 2025