Changing faces

Mallorca was one of Spain’s first holiday hotspots, but came close to ruin in the second half of the 20th century. Now, it’s back to its glorious best, says Hetty Lintell

READER: I must confess, I’ve had more than one holiday romance, always falling fast, head over heels. These relationships can last a fleeting week or ignite a lifetime of lust. In Mallorca’s case, it’s the latter, but this isn’t the sort of sordid affair you might currently be conjuring up. This is a passion for the place itself, a glorious island of split personalities, ready for any kind of traveller in any kind of mood. Mallorca means something different to each and every person who treads on its shores and some become so intoxicated they end up laying down roots for life.

In its long life, Mallorca has attracted legions of conquerors, invaders, settlers and, of course, tourists, all of whom have left behind something of themselves. In the capital, Palma, the architecture stretches from 13thcentury Gothic to 20th-century Art Nouveau. There are also the remains of prehistoric settlements, medieval churches and fortresses to be explored—a handful of which have been turned into sensational hotels.