Eat your greens

MOST Oriental greens or leaves are brassicas M that originate from China and surrounding countries.

- Mark Diacono

Although diverse in looks and taste, they are unified to a degree by a 'green', peppery flavour, an adaptability to a cutand-come-again approach and a robust nature.

Some, such as Chinese cabbage and pak choi, are mild and crisp; others, including mibuna and mizuna, are mild and peppery when small, developing a lively heat when large; a few, such as Shungiku, have their own distinct character. All are delicious raw and, although tenderness often reduces as the leaves grow, an agreeable crunch typically develops and, even when very large, they are superb stir-fried. Chinese cabbage and pak choi are among those that produce dense hearts, often with a mild flavour, and are particularly good grilled or fried in halves or wedges.

Oriental leaves tend to be vigorous, highly productive, resilient and largely unfussy about soil and climate. Perhaps most usefully, they are enthusiastic growers through the coldest months of the year.