REVIVING HERITAGE

How Restaurants are Modernizing Goan Cuisine

- Aditi Malhotra

Goan cuisine, deeply rooted in the region's rich history and cultural tapestry, is experiencing a renaissance of sorts, thanks to innovative chefs and restaurateurs. Across Goa, a new wave of culinary pioneers is breathing life into long-lost recipes, blending tradition with modern flair to keep the essence of Goan food alive and thriving. This approach is not just about serving food; it's about preserving heritage, telling stories, and making history relevant for today's diners. Bringing Back Long-Lost Recipes Many traditional Goan recipes, once a staple in homes across the region, had begun to fade from pub l ic memory , ove r shadowed by more contemporary or simplified versions of the cuisine. Dishes like Hooman (a traditional fish curry), Sannas (Goan steamed rice cakes), and Ambotik (a tangy and spicy curry) were at risk of being forgotten. However, restaurants are now bringing these recipes back to life, often after extensive research involving local elders, family archives, and historical cookbooks.

These dishes are not just replicated but are given a thoughtful modern twist that appeals to the contemporary palate. For instance, the traditional Sorpotel, a spicy pork dish, might be served with artisanal bread or paired with locally brewed craft beer, offering a fresh take on a classic while maintaining its original flavor profile.