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<p>The polo bar presents itself as open to all comers, but it is not. This is a private clubhouse in all but name, guarded by Nelly Moudime, a former model from Cameroon who came to Ralph Lauren&rsquo;s shrine to stitched leather and honeyed pine via Keith McNally&rsquo;s Minetta Tavern.&nbsp;She&rsquo;s seemingly affixed to the landing at the bottom of the restaurant&rsquo;s spiral staircase&mdash;so much so that on a recent night off, a stricken Clive Davis could be heard asking, &ldquo;Where&rsquo;s Nelly?&rdquo;</p>
<p>It is Moudime who mediates the Polo Bar&rsquo;s carefully guarded hierarchy of actors, editors, fashion moguls, and the extended Lauren family. Rumors persist that the classification system is as stratified as McNally&rsquo;s, though reps for the restaurant deny it. Established regulars won&rsquo;t say too much for fear of upsetting the balance that Moudime, a self-described control freak, curates within these windowless walls, but one did let slip that she becomes friends with many of the VIPs and &ldquo;enters their orbit in a real way.&rdquo; Kehinde Wiley has painted multiple portraits of Moudime, and it&rsquo;s said she&rsquo;s constantly fending off poaching attempts, but for now, whenever, say, Steve Tisch, Marjorie Gubelmann, or Tommy Hilfiger wants a table, it&rsquo;s Moudime who decides where that will be&mdash;and whether any hoi polloi should be granted entry at all.</p>
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SEAT YOU DOWNSTAIRS AT THE POLO BAR

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