FIFTY-THREE YEARS after a trio of artists opened the commune-as-restaurant Food—where sculptor and filmmaker friends served dinner from giant vats to John Cage and Trisha Brown—the Swiss couple behind the megagallery Hauser &amp; Wirth are opening a Soho artists’ hangout of their own. When it opens in October, Manuela (130 Prince St.; manuela-nyc.​com), named for Manuela Wirth, will, by the look of things, entertain a slightly different tax bracket, and the menu will be nothing like the $4 meals of frogs’ legs and marrow bones Gordon Matta-Clark served back in the ’70s, through which Robert Rauschenberg’s assistant Hisachika Takahashi drilled holes so diners could wear the leftovers home. Head chef Sean Froedtert’s menu is built around local produce and sustainable seafood. Grilled monkfish is brushed with sumac and topped with a punchy relish of guindilla peppers and black olives; spears of okra might get a loose jacket of char on a wood-burning grill, then land on a garlic-feta spread with a concentrated, nutty chermoula crisp on top; and a flattened oversize oyster mushroom, shallow-fried and served over an emulsion of more mushroom and black vinegar, was so well liked during a recent tasting that Ewan Venters, the CEO of Hauser &amp; Wirth and its hospitality offshoot, Artfarm, was willing to overlook its monochromatic brown presentation. There is plenty of visual flair in the cavernous dining room, which will be filled with “interventions” such as a rambling twist of mushrooms and branches around a bar by Mika Rottenberg (pictured), an enormous Pat Steir in a private room, and tables by Mary Heilmann. In stark relief to the rest of the neighborhood— including the Hauser &amp; Wirth gallery up the street—nothing in the dining room is meant to be for sale. Instead, Venters says, the goal is to “democratize showing art.” (Every day, he points out, 500 people pass through another Artfarm property in London, the Audley, where a hand-painted Phyllida Barlow paper collage looms.) Manuela is not an homage to Food, but it is designed to nod to the connection artists have always had with restaurants. “It’s all about the magic of people and who’s in the room,” Venters says. “Where the artists go, everyone follows.”

Soho Will Get a New Artists' Restaurant

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