We all know black tie as a dress code, a set of guidelines for acceptable wear. When obliged to obey the code, straying from the accepted standards is unacceptable and deeply rooted in the world of fashion. In spite of this, black tie is rarely challenged - but Valentino has done just that.
Pierpaolo Piccioli's Fall/Winter 2023 screams punk rock: it is edgy, eccentric, and captivating. The collection itself develops on items taken from everyday life and takes black tie literally. Piccioli contends that it is a "demystification of the formal". The house employs punk to recreate what formal attire looks like by meditating on how it should feel while defying rules and unhinging restrictions.
Expectations of the tie as a sign of masculine authority, an emblem of orthodoxy and constraint, become theoretical architecture for a collection that plays with norms and emancipates meaning. Conjecture and cultural capital are transformed. Its conceptual assumption is contested, eventually refuted, and completely reinterpreted.
This story is from the April 2023 edition of Prestige Malaysia.
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This story is from the April 2023 edition of Prestige Malaysia.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
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