A Golden C(age)

A closer look at the history of jewellery indicates that social constructs have frequently determined who can wear it—but the future is for him, her and them

- Amrita Katara

It’s 2023. Humankind has broken the shackles we once created for ourselves, and the concept of gender and our attitude towards identity is slowly evolving. In recent years, the fashion industry has taken note of this shift, with more brands offering unisex clothing lines. But what about jewellery? Can it be gender-free? And if so, how does a luxury brand cater to this new market without compromising on quality or style? A conversation with some of the most renowned names in the high jewellery industry helped Tatler realise that we are, in fact, returning to our roots.

“Historically, men have worn jewellery in all different cultures: from kings in Europe to the maharajas in India, the tsars in Russia to the pharaohs in Egypt. Jewels and stones were dear to men as a sign of power and wealth,” says Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, the CEO of French high jewellery maison Boucheron. “I have always wished men would wear jewellery again because that is what they have always done. I don’t see why this should change.”

Boucheron, founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron, has a rich history of crafting exquisite jewellery for royalty and aristocrats in France and around the world. Among the numerous male clients of the maison since the 19th century, the Maharaja of Patiala “is probably the most memorable”, says Poulit-Duquesne. Back in 1928, he entrusted Boucheron with what would become the largest special order ever placed in the history of Place Vendôme and by extension of high jewellery. In January 2021, Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne offered a reimagined perspective on this moment with the unveiling of the Histoire de Style, New Maharajahs collection. “Our genderless approach to jewellery is nothing new for Boucheron. We have always focused on the emotions our creations arouse, and emotions have no gender,” says Poulit-Duquesne.