RAISING THE STEAKS

Hanwoo, Korea’s native beef, is celebrated not only for its flavourful meat but also its rich history and deep cultural significance. We explore the qualities and traditions that make Hanwoo a national treasure—and why the rest of the world needs to know about it

- Fontaine Cheng

If you find yourself in South Korea and decide to indulge in top-grade beef, chances are you’ll encounter Hanwoo, a native breed that has roamed the Korean peninsula for over 2,000 years. But it’s not just any old cow. Like the better-known Japanese Wagyu, Hanwoo boasts exceptional marbling, only with less fat content, and a distinctive, robust flavour that sets it apart.

Raised free-range in the South Korean countryside, Hanwoo cattle thrive on a diet of grain or grass and occasionally beer-enriched feed. Its high price tag is driven by quality and the fact that demand significantly exceeds supply. South Korea has even less land for rearing its indigenous cattle than Japan; and Hanwoo are smaller creatures. This scarcity, coupled with the breed’s superior attributes, places Hanwoo in the same league as Wagyu.

The importance of Hanwoo in Korea goes far beyond the kitchen. Before the 1960s, Korea was primarily an agrarian society where cattle were indispensable for farming. “Cows were the main labour force of agriculture, responsible for tasks such as ploughing fields, carrying heavy loads and other necessary duties,” explains Yoon Won-suk, executive chef at Byeokje Galbi, a restaurant in Seoul renowned for its barbecued beef short ribs since 1986. “They even played a part in solving economic problems because they were sold when a large amount of money was needed [by farmers].” These cows were so valuable that butchering them was reserved for the wealthy or elite, making Hanwoo a symbol of prosperity and abundance.