Weaving Tradition

Anamika Khanna, a trailblazer in Indian fashion, has forged a unique path that marries tradition with contemporary style. Tatler spoke to her ahead of her collaboration with H&M about craftsmanship, the Ambani wedding and why she's finally in a state of peace By Tara Sobti. Photography

- Tenzin Lhagyal

News of Anamika Khanna’s collaboration with high street brand H&M broke just hours before Tatler’s interview with the designer. After days of scheduling, having the opportunity to speak to Khanna shortly after the announcement felt like fate. Designers are often inundated with commitments following major news like this, and being able to access a creative mind at a pivotal moment in their career felt truly special. Khanna spoke from her serene atelier in Kolkata—a place that is widely regarded as the cultural capital of India, less frenetic than the fast-paced lifestyle of Mumbai—and away from the hustle and bustle of Bollywood. Cool and composed, she reflected on how the east coast city allows her the freedom to focus. “Kolkata gives me space to put my head down and work. I don’t feel the social pressure [of being in Mumbai] or having to get ready to go out,” she says.

Her air of calm not only shapes her creative process but is also reflected in the effortless elegance of her designs, which blend tradition with modernity and cultural heritage with innovation. Since the late 1990s, Khanna has established herself as a prominent figure in the global fashion landscape, becoming the first Indian woman to showcase her collection at Paris Fashion Week, in 2007. With a background as a classical dancer and painter, she brings a unique artistic perspective to her work, despite having no formal design training.

Reflecting on the early days of her career, she recalls, “Indianwear was constantly looked upon as a costume and it wasn’t taken seriously as modern fashion. But I don’t think you’ll find textile heritage and craft like this anywhere else in the world. Back then, any time I met a young person, they used to say things like: ‘I can’t wear a sari [to an event]. It’s too much.’ All I kept thinking was that the sari was just going to die out if I didn’t bring it into the modern era. I made it my thing to modernise Indian fashion.”