Tokyo and Kyoto From a Different Perspective

When pointed in the right direction, the land of the rising sun reveals many more layers to explore - even after multiple visits.

- KAREN TEE

There we were, striding down Tokyo's glitzy Ginza district, gaping at the neon signs, brightly lit department stores, and flagship designer boutiques that line its wide boulevards.

But before anyone can really take it all in and savour the delight of being back in the land of the rising sun after two long years of pandemic-induced closed borders- we slip into a tiny alleyway, where traffic suddenly quietens to a gentle hum.

Our intrepid host, Shingo Kido, Senior Director of Public Relations & Communications at Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi and Otemachi, is takingusona "salarymancrawl" of Ginza to discover the watering holes where the country's working class unwind after a hard day's work.

Even though Ginza is primarily known for its swanky members-only omakase establishments, this district also teems with grittier but no less exceptional dining destinations that only those in the know would have heard of.

Our first stop is Rock Fish, a hole in-the-wall joint on the second floor of a nondescript commercial building along Corridor-dori, where the only drink available is a genius iceless Kaku-hi (Kakubin whiskey highball) concoction that never dilutes. For solo drinkers, the bar counter is thoughtfully divided with clear acrylic screens a nod to these pandemic times to ensure peace and quiet while enjoying their Kaku-hi.

With happy hour sorted, we whizz down Corridor Gai, known for its lively izakaya bars. Kido's favourite is the boisterous Andy's Shin Hinomoto. Run by an Englishman who has lived in Japan for almost three decades, hence the sports bar decor, it boasts a typical Japanese menu.

Order the sashimi platter, featuring the day's freshest catch from Toyosu market, where the famous Tsukiji Market has relocated. Wash it down with a signature shochu sour judiciously flavoured with freshly squeezed grapefruit or lemon that each diner juices themselves at the table.