The proof is in the DRINKING

More and more viticulturists, wine farmers and makers are going organic, or even biodynamic. They're putting in the hard yards to save the planet and make better wine

- LORRAINE KEARNEY

Organic wine just tastes better; biodynamic even better than this. This is the word from the experts: after farming for 23 years and making organic wine for 13 of those, Silvermist Vineyards owner and winemaker Gregory Louw says you can definitely pick up a difference in the wine.

He can even explain why: ‘Organic bunches are fewer on vines, the bunches are smaller, the berries are smaller and the berry skin is much thicker. When you extend the skin contact, without the use of enzymes or filters or extraction, huge amounts of dissolved solids move from the skins into the juices. The result is a juice with more dissolved solids.

‘The skin-to-pulp ratio is much higher in organic farming and with extended skin contact and this incredible extraction into the juice, the wine begins on a strong playing field, which translates directly to the wine complexity.

‘The majority of flavour compounds in grapes is around and near the skin, so the organic berry has more skin and less pulp. The wine is more concentrated in flavour.’

Erica Armstrong from Haut Espoir in Franschhoek agrees. ‘Our experience is that it definitely tastes much more herbaceous, more fynbos-y. The flavours are much more concentrated because your berries tend to not be as massive and juicy.’

Meerendal Wine Estate in Durbanville is busy going through the transition, necessarily in stages, but the whole farm will be certified organic by January 2028. Winemaker Wade Roger-Lund says they want ‘to leave the farm in a good state for generations to come’. And yes, there is a difference in the taste and aroma profiles, he says.