The urus-i behri kebab from Rampur, Uttar Pradesh, is made with the freshwater fish sanwal, "cooked, ground and reconstructed to resemble a fish two feet long with scales, tongue and tail, each of which has a different flavour." This fascinating dish from pre-Partition now exists only in memory and in essays such as the one by Pakistani writer Muneeza Shamsie written for the book Forgotten Foods: Memories And Recipes From Muslim South Asia.
The evocative title has resonance with culinary interests of the present. Chefs, diners and food enthusiasts of all manner are exploring history, anthropology and culture to forge a deeper understanding of cuisine. This curiosity spanned menus like "Forgotten, Foraged and Fermented" at Noon in Mumbai this year; food-centric events such The Nilgiris Earth Festival that will be held in December and showcase little-known produce of the Western Ghats; and books like Sabita Radhakrishna's Paachakam (2022), with recipes defined by regional communities of Kerala, and Sonal Ved's Whose Samosa Is It Anyway? (2021), which views Indian food through a historical lens.
This story is from the November 25, 2023 edition of Mint Mumbai.
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This story is from the November 25, 2023 edition of Mint Mumbai.
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