&ldquo;Let the lamp affix its beam./ The only Emperor is the Emperor of ice cream.&rdquo;
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Wallace Stevens&rsquo;s poem runs through my head as Bunny and I once again visit Italy, our favourite country in Europe. If instead of being a Republic, were La Bella Italia to be an empire it would be a realm where gelato ruled supreme.
One of the many things that Italians and Indians have in common is an enthusiasm for food. And of all the many, and varied, kinds of food that Italians are fond of, none takes precedence over gelato, in all its myriad avatars.
For Italians, ice cream is not just a casual treat; it is an existential commitment. A character in a novel set in Rome remarks, &ldquo;A day without ice cream is a day wasted.&rdquo;
And Italy makes sure no day goes to waste. Walk down any street in an Italian city, and gelato parlours, their plate-glass windows displaying seductive sculptures of the delicacy, in all its beguiling flavours, that would make a latter-day Michelangelo proud, outnumber even the boutiques that genuflect to Gucci, Versace, Armani and other deities&nbsp;of the fashionista pantheon.
Bunny is learning Italian, and is of the firm conviction that one of the ways to increase her linguistic skills is to do what the Italians do, and to&nbsp;receive with thanksgiving the benediction of il gelato.
I ask her which flavour she&rsquo;d like, of the bewildering bounty on offer.&nbsp;But even as I say the words, I know the question is rhetorical. Because Bunny is a staunch adherent to the credo of nocciola, hazelnut, which is what she invariably chooses.
This consumer loyalty to a specific representative of the confection serves to endorse her approval of the genre in its entirety.
It&rsquo;s like having a favourite author, a choice which reinforces your love of reading as a whole. Or liking the work of a particular composer, or singer, which helps to make you appreciate music of other kinds.
And it&rsquo;s their devotion to gelato that imbues Italians with an all-embracing love of la dolce vita. For Italy is forever sundae.
</div>

Ice cream empire

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