FROM OUTBACK TO OCEAN

A river safari o ers two contrasting stages of the River Murray in South Australia, delivering a delightful immersion in its historic, natural and cultural values

- CHRISSIE GOLDRICK

GAZING ACROSS A cracked mud plain stretching all the way to the horizon while occasionally peering into a spotting scope to try to spy wildlife at a faraway waterhole, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re on the African savannah. So it’s little surprise this five-day, four-night tour of the River Murray in South Australia is described by its operators as a safari.

The Murray River Safari is a small-group luxury experience operated by Tony Sharley, a former officer with the Murray-Darling Basin Authority. His deep knowledge of this iconic aquatic system, coupled with his passion for the environment, has crafted the perfect short break that’s rich in history and nature, and with just enough adventure to provide a challenge without putting anyone under too much pressure.

IT’S A LONG drive from Adelaide to the starting point on Day 1 but we’re not too far up the road before the river begins to weave its way into our hearts when we cross our first bridge over the Murray at Blanchetown. The view of the river and its side channel Cumbunga Creek to our left is startling in its scale; it’s the first hint that everything about the Murray is big. The road mostly follows the river from Waikerie onwards, and we catch the occasional glimpse of magnificent red cliffs as we draw closer to our houseboat mooring a few kilometres upstream of the port of Renmark, where we’ll spend the first two nights of our adventure.

The impacts of a recent major flooding event are evident. The riverbanks are uniformly dressed with a thick layer of dried grey mud, and the high-water mark is clearly visible on the trunks of stately river red gums, some of which still have their feet in the water. The river level remains high as floodwater continues to drain down through the Murray–Darling system from as far away as central Queensland.