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<p><strong>THE FIRST TIME HE ATTENDED THE MASTERS,</strong> nearly a decade ago, the renowned chef Thomas Keller did what any golf and food enthusiast would&nbsp;do: He wandered the grounds, eating up the atmosphere and savoring the beauty. Then he made a beeline for the concession stand.</p>
<p>Spoiler alert: He did not order a chicken biscuit.</p>
<p>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s the Masters,&rdquo; Keller says. &ldquo;You&rsquo;ve got to go with the pimento cheese.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Just as the salmon tartare cornet is a signature for Keller, the Michelin three-star man behind Per Se, in New York, and The French Laundry, in Northern California, the pimento-cheese sandwich is a staple across large swaths of the South. But no version is more famous than the one sold at the Masters, where a spread of gooey goodness squeezed between white bread fetches a scant $1.50.</p>
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<p>Haute cuisine it isn&rsquo;t. And that, Keller says, is the point.</p>
<p>&ldquo;In everything we eat, as with all of our experiences, it&rsquo;s a matter of managing our expectations,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;I learned that lesson years ago when I dined at my first Michelin three-star restaurant in France. I don&rsquo;t know what my expectations were, but no restaurant could have possibly met them, and I wound up ruining the experience for myself.&rdquo;</p>
<p>When you purchase Augusta&rsquo;s classic concession item, Keller says, you know that you can count on simple comforts. Nothing more. Nothing less.</p>
<p>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s everything you could ask for,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;Right down to the soft white bread that sticks to the roof of your mouth.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Not that pimento cheese can&rsquo;t stand up to white-tablecloth settings. At Per Se, Keller serves it on a cracker as a palate teaser. He came up with the concept as a quiet homage after one of multiple return trips to Augusta, where, in addition to being a patron twice, he has played three times as a guest.</p>
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<p>On those visits, Keller has enjoyed tours of the club&rsquo;s epic wine cellar (&ldquo;When you&rsquo;ve got three cases of Screaming Eagle per vintage, you know you&rsquo;ve got pretty good connections,&rdquo; Keller says) as well as its kitchens. Known for the meticulousness of his restaurants, Keller says that he was struck by the sophistication of Augusta&rsquo;s operation.</p>
<p>&ldquo;They&rsquo;re incredibly impressive, dynamic and flexible,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;Pretty much whatever you want, you can get.&rdquo;</p>
<p>And you can bank on it being well prepared.</p>
<p>&ldquo;They know how to cook asparagus, crab cakes, steaks&mdash;&nbsp;you name it,&rdquo; Keller says. &ldquo;The menu is essentially traditional Southern food, which is appropriate for Augusta.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Ask for foie gras, though, and you can have that too.</p>
<p>In Napa Valley, where he lives and carries a 16 index, Keller&nbsp;is no stranger to feeding hungry golfers. His home course is at Silverado Resort and Spa, a vineyard-fringed retreat just down the road from the French Laundry that hosts a PGA Tour stop, the Fortinet Championship. Every year, when the event rolls around, Keller sets up a concession at Silverado, specializing in two sandwiches, both served on white bread:&nbsp;peanut butter and jelly (&ldquo;on Wonder Bread, just like you had it when you were 10&rdquo;) and&mdash;wait for it&mdash;pimento cheese.</p>
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<p>There are, Keller says, as many ways to prepare pimento cheese as there are people who enjoy it.</p>
<p>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s like a lot of familiar dishes,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;Different home cooks put different things into it.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Still, some ingredients are pretty much standard: cream cheese, cheddar, pimentos, salt and pepper. Seasonings vary with personal taste. How Augusta makes its version? Keller says he doesn&rsquo;t know. But at Silverado, Keller uses garlic and onion powder as a throwback touch, with a dash of vinegar and hot sauce. His goal is to emulate what he has eaten at the Masters.</p>
<p>&ldquo;I&rsquo;m not trying to make it better,&rdquo; Keller says. &ldquo;I&rsquo;m just trying to make it accurate.&rdquo;</p>
<p>He thinks he&rsquo;s gotten close. But there is one element he can&rsquo;t replicate.</p>
<p>&ldquo;I&rsquo;d love to use the green cellophane wrapping they use at Augusta, but I can&rsquo;t find it anywhere,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;That must be made specially for them.&rdquo;</p>
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