
I pried open the blinds, letting dawn's opalescent light into the cabin. Outside my window, wild forest zoomed past. All night, the train had barrelled up the "jungle rails", a historic set of tracks that spans the length of peninsular Malaysia, from its southernmost tip to its border with Thailand in the northeast. It would lead us to Taman Negara, one of the world's oldest rainforests and the last refuge of the Malayan tiger.
I was one of 56 passengers, hailing from as far as Texas, Romania, and New Zealand, who'd boarded the previous afternoon at Singapore's Woodlands station to experience the return of the Eastern & Oriental Express, A Belmond Train, Southeast Asia, four years after it was shut down by the pandemic. Over three days, the train would bear north on the eastern coast to Taman Negara, then backtrack and head up Malaysia's more populated west coast to Penang, before looping back to Singapore. We'd pass forests, paddy fields, and townships while cosseted in the silken luxury for which Belmond's sleepers are renowned. For its second coming, the train has retained its trademark exterior green and gold, but the interiors have been carefully restyled. My cabin was bathed in peacock blues and jade greens, with vintage touches like brass lamps and fine marquetry. A velvet couch turned into a bed at night; cherry wood panelling concealed a full bathroom. This was my private oasis, where I enjoyed breakfast and high tea in solitude.
Denne historien er fra August - September - October 2024-utgaven av Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Denne historien er fra August - September - October 2024-utgaven av Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på

BIG ON JAPAN
What inspires India’s Nippon-loving gourmets? Julian Manning uncovers their favourite haunts

SURF AND SOUL FOOD
Big-name chefs in search of work-life balance are building a community and revolutionising the food scene in tranquil Pererenan along the southwest coast of Bali, writes Natascha Hawke.

ARQ AT PICHOLA UDAIPUR
The Leela Palace Udaipur's luxury villas on Lake Pichola are all about their immersive experiences, finds Jasreen Mayal Khanna

GONE WITH THE WIND
A new dhow turned liveaboard offers slow immersion into the Swahili culture, mangroves, and creeks of Lamu archipelago off the north coast of Kenya. Words and photographs by Chris Schalkx

SHOPPING IN AHMEDABAD
Gujarat's heritage crafts like bandhani and patola meet dynamic designs in Ahmedabad's fashion, jewellery, and home décor labels.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
With a new generation mining local flavours, Dubai's dining scene is no longer defined by superstar global chefs and popular international brands.

JORDY NAVARRA
The chef and restaurant owner behind the Philippine capital's award-winning Toyo Eatery lists his hometown favourites—from flavourful lamb adobo to caramelised sweet potato skewers

RAN BAAS THE PALACE PATIALA
Punjab's first luxury palace hotel unlocks the possibilities for a great cultural revival of the state's royal legacy, finds Chandrahas Choudhury.

CHOWTIME IN CHENNAI
From Peranakan specials to Korean ramen, if you bring curiosity to the table, the city will not disappoint, finds Vidya Balachander.

A BRIGHTER SHADE OF PALE
A SKI SAFARI ACROSS THE CRAGGY DOLOMITES REVEALS SHIMMERING POWDER FIELDS AND RICHLY PRESERVED VALLEY MICROCULTURES