![Adelaide Hills](https://cdn.magzter.com/1416371037/1680567127/articles/8yCuF2V5w1680610487787/ADELAIDE-HILLS.jpg)
Whenever I drive from Adelaide, the sights and smells of the gum trees and the forest surrounding the road signify the start of the Adelaide Hills. It’s the point of demarcation from leaving the city and entering wine country. The trees that surround and almost hide Brendon and Kirsty Keys’ winery (and their cool half-pipe) at BK Wines. The scents of eucalyptus that surround crushed pinot gris grapes at David Bowley’s Vinteloper.
It’s why my heart broke in the summer of 2020 when an uncontrollable bushfire raged through 1100 hectares of vines in the region, affecting 60 growers and winemakers, roughly a third of the region’s wine production. There were stories of survival, notably the one about Geoff Merrill jumping into the dam on his property (along with some of the kangaroo and wallaby population) to wait out the fires. Then there were stories of heartbreak, when the smoke settled and Bowley at Vinteloper realised that the fires decimated 24,000 of his 27,000 planted vines.
So three vintages on, from the levelling of 25,000 hectares in the Adelaide Hills, what have we learned as we go from “once in a lifetime” to the “new norm” of catastrophic weather events?
“There is no playbook for when your entire property burns,” says Bowley, winemaker/owner at Vinteloper.
This story is from the April 2023 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the April 2023 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
![48 HOURS IN LUCCA](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/WHsRTWyRl1720081800803/48-HOURS-IN-LUCCA.jpg)
48 HOURS IN LUCCA
By the Serchio river within Renaissance-era walls, Lucca's gastronomic treasures are set to delight, as ANASTASIA MIARI discovers.
![POSTCARDS FROM UDINE](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/3Mg6k_jHM1720081379168/POSTCARDS-FROM-UDINE.jpg)
POSTCARDS FROM UDINE
Off the radar in northeastern Italy, the provincial city is rich with la dolce vita.
![BERGAMO OR BUST](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/Uf6UwoG_J1720080926860/BERGAMO-OR-BUST.jpg)
BERGAMO OR BUST
Concealed between sophisticated Milan and glamorous Lake Como, beautiful Bergamo is Lombardy's hidden gem, discovers ANNA HART.
![Coast with the most](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/ExlLeX_qg1720079738013/COAST-WITH-THE-MOST.jpg)
Coast with the most
Food writer AMBER GUINNESS transports us to the shores of Italy's Tyrrhenian Sea by way of delicious helpings of pasta, fish and limoncello.
![SALUTE](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/dj61aAuCb1720078998370/SALUTE.jpg)
SALUTE
Explore the warm Mediterranean waters and fresh flavours of Sardinia with these recipes from Brisbane's Pilloni by chef PIETRO SEGALINI.
![Tutti a tavola a mangiare!](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/dA1QnBUGa1720077983168/TUTTI-A-TAVOLA-A-MANGIARE.jpg)
Tutti a tavola a mangiare!
The alimentari, or small Italian food store, is a treasure trove of continental delicacies to inspire and delight. We hit the shops, exploring row after row of specialty Italian goods, as the starting point for these delightful trattoria dishes.
![Everyday](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/WgLNSpKDT1720077233154/EVERYDAY.jpg)
Everyday
JULIA BUSUTTIL NISHIMURA shares simple dinners, elegant tray bakes and easy entertaining dishes with an Italian lean.
![The golden rules of pasta](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/JOctlwaQg1720076590545/THE-GOLDEN-RULES-OF-PASTA.jpg)
The golden rules of pasta
Melbourne's modern-day pasta god ANDREAS PAPADAKIS, co-owner and executive chef at Tipo 00, shares his knead-to-know playbook.
![Italy by train](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/-bw4FHLn21720076210505/ITALY-BY-TRAIN.jpg)
Italy by train
Station to station, town to town, ERICA FIRPO experiences poetry in motion on board vintage locomotive, the Treno Natura.
![SEARCHING FOR Venice](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/8160/1729441/bjKmOkkby1720076018983/SEARCHING-FOR-VENICE.jpg)
SEARCHING FOR Venice
The key to unlocking the essence of this most romantic of Italian cities is to get lost in it, writes LEE TULLOCH.