Let’s start – as you should – with the focaccia. Not only is Alta’s version excellent with its high olive oil content, thin style, moist middle and crunchy, slightly fried exterior, but it announces this new Fitzroy diner’s intentions immediately.
This is a trattoria with its heart in and focus on Italy’s north-west, Piedmont in particular. No tricks or “modern takes” here, just skilled, refined cooking from co-owner and chef McKay Wilday (ex-Copenhagen’s Geranium) accompanied by a deep and thoroughly impressive wine list that follows the Piedmontese lead: wine from that region, then from Italy more generally with some good French stuff thrown in and, a nod to Alta’s location, some smart Australian labels.
This story is from the July 2023 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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This story is from the July 2023 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
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