Respecting the legacy of a storied restaurant while trying to keep it in tune with the times can be tricky business. Lean too far one way, and the outcome can be stodgy. Push too far the other, and you risk scaring the horses and leaving behind what made it great in the first place. We're only a few months into Aaron Ward's turn as executive chef at Bathers' Pavilion, but so far I'd say he's getting the balance just right.
This story is from the April 2024 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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This story is from the April 2024 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
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HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
