MUMBAI

Inventive chefs are sharing their stories through food in India's ever-evolving west coast metropolis, but the city's appetite for street food, thalis and Parsi dishes remains a comforting constant

- MEERA DATTANI

"I've been here 40 years," says Satinder Singh. "Everyone wants a glass of sweet, salty nimbu pani." Standing in the baking sun at Satinder's street stall in South Mumbai's historic Fort neighbourhood, his rehydrating lime soda cannot come quickly enough.

I'm touring the downtown Colaba area with Pooja Madan Kathuria, a guide of nine years who was born and raised in Mumbai. We're on the Bombay (as the city is still known by many) Express walking route arranged by A Chef's Tour, a company specialising in group and private street food tours around Asia. "People are often sceptical about street food," says Pooja. "And most do this tour on their last day. They should do it on their first."

I couldn't agree more. Street food is a defining feature of Mumbai culture and a deep-dive into its myriad forms is essential to understanding the city's intense appreciation for food. Pooja leads me to a vada pav stand by the Telegraph Building at Churchgate Station. Now run by second and third generations, it's been dishing up deep-fried mashed potato dumplings (vada) in a bun (pav) with garlicky chutney and green chilli to Mumbaikars since 1971. The dish dates back much further, however. Locals will tell you it was vada vendor Ashok Vaidya who first spotted a fellow seller serving omelette pav in 1866 and championed a combo of the two.