BEYOND THE GHATS

Away from the hustle and bustle of the popular ghats lies another Varanasi, replete with royal palaces and magnificent mansions. ANUBHUTI KRISHNA discovers this unexplored side of the sacred city.

- ANUBHUTI KRISHNA

THE PEARLY WHITE PALACE glistens in the golden rays of the setting sun after an unexpected summer shower. A gentle purvai, a breeze from the east, wafts softly into the Gangetic plains of Uttar Pradesh, brings with it the mellow fragrance of the Banarasi langra mango. On my left is an imposing porch with the royal horse carriage, on my right an ancient marble temple; beautifully manicured lawns greet me ahead while a cobbled pathway with huge iron gates stands behind. I had arrived in Varanasi expecting to witness many things but seeing palaces was not on the list, and here I am, standing at the helm of a palace in the middle of the city known for its ghats and temples.

"Banaras or Varanasi is filled with royal homes and palaces. The city was a spiritual diplomatic enclave of the Hindus and a gateway to heaven, so irrespective of their stature, everyone built a home here," says Navneet Raman, a Varanasi resident who works in the culture and heritage space, and ascends from royal lineage. When the land by the river was exhausted, most palaces moved inwards. Mansions with large gardens, umpteen courtyards and a number of chowks inside them came up. "Most of the palaces today are either dilapidated or have been taken over by ASI (Archeological Survey of India); the few that remain are private," says Raman. Thankfully, Nadesar Palace, one of the oldest in the city, is open to select guests and I have the privilege to see it first-hand.