Lunching In Leh
Travel+Leisure India|September 2024
Turtuk, the last town of India in Ladakh, is having a culinary and hospitality renaissance, discovers Harsh Surti
Harsh Surti
Lunching In Leh

NESTLED BETWEEN THE majestic Karakoram Range and the formidable Himalayas lies Turtuk, a small, picturesque hamlet steeped in history that stands as a testament to resilience, seamlessly blending cultures. Turtuk's unique location not only provides breathtaking scenery, but also has a profound historical narrative. Originally part of the Gilgit-Baltistan region which later became part of Pakistan, Turtuk was captured by the Indian Army during the 1971 war. This once-prosperous kingdom, stretching across 75,000 square kilometers, is now divided-four villages fall on the Indian side with a population of about 3,000. The village's history aside, Turtuk has now transformed itself into a bastion of unparalleled hospitality thanks to the resilient Balti community. Life in Turtuk is a celebration of lush greenery and rich culture, set against a backdrop of stunning natural beauty.

Amidst this setting, Virsa (instagram.com/virsaladakh) a luxury boutique hotel, stands as a beacon of luxury and cultural preservation. Derived from the Urdu-Farsi-Arabic term for heritage, Virsa encapsulates the essence of Baltistan's rich cultural legacy. As soon as you enter, you are offered a traditional salaam and phyaktab as a warm welcome. The hotel's vernacular architecture, featuring hand-cut stones, mud, intricate woodwork, cultural carvings, and the Looms of Baltistan art series, reflects the Balti style of design, seamlessly blending with modern amenities. The region's ethos is reflected in the minimally curated luxury accommodation, sustainably borrowing from nature and its surroundings. Local experiences such as breakfast in an apricot orchard, picnics by a gushing stream, heritage walks, and local lunches at village homes, offer a deep dive into the local way of life. Evenings are marked by cultural nights with folk music, bonfires, stargazing, and delectable international cuisine.

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