Turkish Delight

A major waterfront revitalization project in Istanbul is giving visitors-and locals-a reason to stroll and stay awhile.

- Jacqueline Gifford

COME SUNSET, there is only one place to be in Turkey's style capital: settled comfortably by the Bosporus, chilled cocktail in hand. The sky was turning a blush pink and seagulls were hovering above the water like ivory drones as we took our seats at Gallada (sharing plates $5-$70), an oasis-like restaurant from chef Fatih Tutak, who is something of a celebrity in Istanbul's food world. Opened last July to rave reviews, it crowns one of the four buildings that comprise the new Peninsula Istanbul (doubles from $1,029), a much-talked-about addition to the Karaköy neighborhood. Ferries, cargo ships, and packed party boats coursed up and down the strait. Music blasted from the pleasure cruises-an occasional distraction, but one easy enough to ignore. Everyone was ready to shake off the languor of the hot August afternoon and welcome in the cool of night.

Soon enough, fashion types in the latest Gucci and executives in crisp shirts started to saunter in, and the restaurant was just as humming as the party boats. Our group o of three, by contrast, included two bleary-eyed parents and a starving eight-year-old boy-hardly the normal crowd. In addition to Gallada, the 38-year-old Tutak operates Turk (tasting menu $183), the only Michelin two-starred restaurant in Turkey.