Heart of a Nation

One of the biggest projects transforming Saudi Arabia is the restoration of Diriyah, birthplace of the Kingdom. As it opens permanently to visitors for the first time, we discover a historic wonder that manages to also capture a new era

- Lyn Hughes, Juliet Rix

Diriyah: The city of earth

A series of huge projects are changing the face of Saudi Arabia, but none is more symbolic than the restoration of its old capital, finds Lyn Hughes

"Many people don't know Saudi food," explained Hadeel Al Mutawa, the female founder of Takya restaurant, as eight of us sat around a table in relaxed camaraderie sharing the first wave of dishes she had sent out. A salad of fig, mandarin and pomegranate arrived, followed by citrus-infused chickpeas with beetroot, and light dumplings stuffed with pumpkin. It was traditional food but made with a contemporary twist and taken to fine-dining levels. It's no surprise that Takya was one of the first restaurants offered a prestigious spot in a new high-profile development overlooking the UNESCO World Heritage site of At-Turaif. Hadeel had more than earned her place at its table.

Just as enjoyable as the mouthwatering cuisine was the wide-ranging conversation swirling around it. My Saudi companions were all connected in some way with At-Turaif and Diriyah - a project launched to restore what was the birthplace of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, capital of the First Saudi State and original home of the Al Saud family, opening it back up to the public. It was the reason for my visit.

But what also struck me was how we were all men and women dining together in Saudi Arabia, the conversation both rich and stimulating.

If you haven't heard, there's change afoot in Saudi. His Royal Highness the Crown Prince Mohammed Bin Salman Al Saud is on a mission to transform the kingdom's economy with his Vision 2030 masterplan, fuelled partly by opening the country up to tourism. And with two-thirds of the population under the age of 35, the social transformations it has triggered are being embraced by a new generation, at least in the main centres.