Vineyards & Valleys

Two thousand years of history make Lyon a fascinating city to explore, says Gillian Thornton

- GILLIAN THORNTON

Rivers add life and loveliness to almost any urban environment, so a city blessed with two major waterways will always deliver.

The Romans founded Lyon on two hills strategically positioned where the Sâone and the Rhône join forces. Two millennia later, their twin theatres on Fourvière hill are still used for performances.

But a great deal has happened in Lyon since the dawn of Roman Lugdunum, and 2,000 years of continuous urban history has earned this delightful city the accolade of World Heritage Site status from UNESCO. Stand on the hilltop terrace beside the 19th century basilica at Fourvière and an architectural timeline of France's second cultural city is spread out before you.

Between the two rivers, the peninsula - or Presqu'Ile - was the heart of the medieval city, transformed in the 17th and 18th century with grand buildings and squares. Today it's home to some seriously fashionable boutiques. Beyond the rivers, the hill of Croix Rousse was the hub of the silk industry from the 1850s, with tall buildings to house the new Jacquard looms. Few looms are working now but you'll find studios run by many young, independent designers.