Travel+Leisure US - December 2023 - January 2024

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On the Right Track
Italy has revived its historic railways, and train enthusiasts are eager to journey on a vintage locomotive.

Ticket to Freedom
A writer recounts her family’s connection to the Pullman Porters, a generation of Black train attendants who laid down tracks for progress.

The Polar Express
An overnight ride into Finnish Lapland ends with a magical encounter...

On the Right Track

Italy is reviving old railways as visitor attractions and breathing life back into underappreciated regions. Taras Grescoe rides a locomotive through the Piedmont countryside.

4 mins

Costa Rica

Picture yourself on a white-sand beach, surrounded by palm trees. In the distance, surfers ride the breaking waves. Behind you rises a dense rainforest, where white-faced capuchin monkeys jump from branch to branch. Welcome to Costa Rica. The following pages will show you why there’s never been a better time to visit this Central American country with an outsize hold on our imagination—and a trailblazing vision for a sustainable future.

2 mins

IT'S ONLY NATURAL

The concept of the eco-lodge-now so prevalent around the world-was perfected in Costa Rica. Almost four decades since the first property of its kind opened in the country, Gina DeCaprio Vercesi meets the new generation of pioneers taking green tourism to the next level.

10+ mins

A Day in San José

A night or two in the Costa Rican capital yields a richer view of the country.

2 mins

WILDEST DREAMS

The rainforests around Arenal Volcano are alive with capuchin monkeys and caimans, tanagers and tree frogs. Amy Waldman visits this hotbed of biodiversity and finds herself face-to-face with Costa Rica's wild side.

7 mins

A CULINARY CONNECTION

On Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, food traditions include a little-known history of Jamaican influence.

3 mins

THE BEST OF GUANACASTE

It's all happening on this golden stretch of Costa Rica's Pacific coast. Dobrina Zhekova gives her guide to the newest places to eat, stay, and surf.

3 mins

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE

The best way to experience Costa Rica's wild side? A walking trail from the Caribbean to the Pacific. Jen Murphy goes off the beaten path.

5 mins

FRESH BREEZES

A superyacht charter represents the newest and most exclusive - way to explore the country.

2 mins

ORIGIN STORIES

Think of a visit to Costa Rica, and you'll probably imagine ziplines and eco-lodges. But there's a deeper way to interact with this environment: through the Indigenous communities that have called it home for centuries.

5 mins

COMMON GROUNDS

The Costa Rican bean is prized among coffee connoisseurs, but, as Tom Vanderbilt discovers, it's just one of a cornucopia of unique foods produced in the country.

4 mins

IN VINO VERITAS

Rome's restaurants may be legendary, but sometimes what you need is a great wine bar. Ray Isle takes a tour of the city's finest enoteche, from the old-school to the cutting-edge.

7 mins

GO BIG OR GO HOME

Generations of skiers have known Big Sky, Montana, as a low-key ski destination. But with new luxury resorts and tricked-out lifts, word is about to get out. Gloria Liu clicks into her skis to test her limits.

10 mins

I DREAM OF INDIA

Palaces, peacocks, tigers, and jewels: few places have the power to bewitch children quite like Rajasthan, in northwestern India. Flora Stubbs takes her kids on a spring break like no other.

10+ mins

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