36 Hours In Belfast

The capital of Northern Ireland has transitioned into a 21st-century outpost that is still in touch with its history

- Nell Mcshane Wulfhart

The yellow gantry cranes of Harland & Wolff, the company behind Belfast’s shipbuilding industry and the creation of the Titanic, rise high above the River Lagan and can be seen from nearly everywhere in the city centre, a reminder of the working class that built Belfast. As the capital of Northern Ireland – increasingly known for its new restaurants and stimulating galleries – turns its Troubles into tourism, it is fast coming into its own as a European hot spot. Though HBO’s Game of Thrones – parts of which were filmed in local studios and nearby areas – deserves credit for helping to put Belfast on the map as a destination, much of the city’s appeal is its warm residents, who are unfailingly ready to share a joke. So build some time into your visit to sink a pint or a cup of third-wave coffee and engage in some impromptu local conversation.

FRIDAY

3pm: Gardens and galleries

Just next to Queen’s University, the Victorian-era Botanic Gardens (free) are home to students enjoying the intermittent sunshine on the lawns, and beautiful Victorian-era buildings. The Tropical Ravine recently underwent a renovation, modernizing the beautiful brick-and-glass structure, which is filled with ferns – a passion of the era – and some of the world’s oldest plants.

Next to it, the Palm House still retains its rattly old charm, with windows cracked open to let in breezes through the ironand-glass exterior. A few yards away is the excellent Ulster Museum (free), where sleek exhibits on the history, ecosystems and art of Northern Ireland make an excellent primer for your visit.

5.30pm: Pints and pipes